Von Buhl Pfalz Riesling 2018
Von Buhl’s entry-level dry Riesling is drawn, in the main, from the Estate’s sandstone-rich vineyards around the villages of Deidesheim, Forst and Ruppertsberg. There’s also some fruit from two small parcels that lie to the immediate east, Niederkirchen and Friedelsheim. All the Estate vineyards are farmed organically (certified) and the wine is naturally fermented in tank, mostly, with some parcels fermented in Von Buhl’s oval dopplestück (oak) casks. Kauffmann’s incoming regime includes extended lees ageing—six months on gross lees—no pumping, and very low sulphur additions, even at this level. Benefiting from a very long and dry summer—the vines basking in a mammoth 2640 hours of sun—producers and critics have been raving about the 2018 vintage. This wine gives you some idea why, although we should note that while many growers took the opportunity to push their yields higher, Von Buhl dropped 30% of their fruit at the beginning of July. This is only the ‘entry point’ Riesling in Von Buhl’s range, but it’s a pithy, minerally bargain, with the extra palate weight of the vintage proving a perfect foil for the rocky texture, mouthwatering, citrus-edged acidity and near absolute dry finish. It will work wonders by the glass (and bottle).